http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ Build a rowboat en-US Tue, 07 Feb 2012 15:19:14 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/search.php http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=219#post-361 Thu, 12 Jan 2012 05:09:33 +0000 Kellan 361@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Thanks for your response, Colin. For the configuration that I mocked up I was assuming the mast would be removed and stowed alongside the cabin for sleeping, but I like the idea of moving it to the bulkhead too. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=219#post-360 Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:18:53 +0000 ColinAngus 360@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>And I forgot to answer your second question. Yes, an appropriately placed daggerboard could help with trim when rowing across the wind. In a strong broadside wind with the Cruiser boat you need to counter a tendency to turn downwind. By temporarily moving the centre of lateral resistance forward the trim could be balanced. It would't be worth installing a daggerboard for this aspect alone, however, something to keep in mind if you're installing one for sailing. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=219#post-359 Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:10:46 +0000 ColinAngus 359@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hey Kellan,</p> <p>Sorry for the long delay in your query. Nice mock-up with the sailing rig. </p> <p>Your position chosen for the centerboard is good, as the structure of the flotation chamber will provide more than adequate support to for the slot. It's important to have the center of lateral resistance close to the center of effort with the sail setup (ideally having the center of effort slightly forward) to get any sort of windward performance.</p> <p>The one aspect that needs some pondering is the mast structure. If it is free standing, the mast sleeve would need to go from the deck to the base of the hull below. This would make the sleeping chamber no longer functional. Alternatively, a deck-stepped mast with standing rigging would keep the cabin clear but be more cumbersome. Perhaps if the mast was moved forward to the bulkhead it could be free standing, and would make a good down-wind rig...</p> <p>Anyway, thanks for the input, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=255#post-358 Wed, 11 Jan 2012 19:51:36 +0000 Kellan 358@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Woohoo, it's open! </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=255#post-356 Wed, 21 Dec 2011 21:13:34 +0000 Colin 356@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hello,</p> <p>Well, we're finally back, and the store will be opening soon. I hoped to get things going a little sooner, but it's been pretty hectic with my mother's health failing, and Julie going through knee surgery. We've just cleaned up the site, and are hoping to get it up and going shortly after Christmas with plans for the Expedition and Cambridge Racer available for purchase. Our tentative date to have plans available for the Cruising Rowboat is mid-Feb.</p> <p>Have a great Christmas everyone!</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=255#post-355 Thu, 15 Dec 2011 17:52:50 +0000 Kellan 355@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hey, the spam has gone away, so maybe the store opening is imminent. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=255#post-354 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 11:02:01 +0000 Ningaloo 354@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>I agree entirely. Approval has been provided to start a project over the christmas holidays, however I have been told that my week of holidays will be used to paint the laundry and other forms of slavery if the store is not open and hence there is no project to commence.</p> <p>I hope that the trip was a great adventure, but please save me from this terrible christmas fate. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=255#post-353 Sat, 10 Dec 2011 21:30:43 +0000 hooker.rob 353@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>While your Olive Odyssey has been interesting, I am ready for the store to open, spam to go away and world peace. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=238#post-336 Sat, 19 Nov 2011 02:14:18 +0000 Kellan 336@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>...and make the spam go away! I hope you're having an amazing trip.</p> <p>Kellan </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=219#post-317 Thu, 27 Oct 2011 23:38:35 +0000 Kellan 317@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Colin,</p> <p>I'm very excited about your Rowing Yacht. I know it's not designed for sail but would you consider the addition of a small, simple, stowable sail rig for running and reaching when he conditions are just right?</p> <p>Here's a little mock-up I did:</p> <p><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ez7xgNZRSGE/Tqnl-6JgtbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/R75x4nwX9Ac/s720/Lugsail.jpg" rel="nofollow">https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ez7xgNZRSGE/Tqnl-6JgtbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/R75x4nwX9Ac/s720/Lugsail.jpg</a></p> <p>You might not want to bother with a lateral resistance foil at all, but it would be possible to add a small off-center daggerboard:</p> <p><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sMM5hCxA6a0/TqnmHDzCxSI/AAAAAAAAAgI/HQhcnBejXwY/s720/Daggerboard.jpg" rel="nofollow">https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sMM5hCxA6a0/TqnmHDzCxSI/AAAAAAAAAgI/HQhcnBejXwY/s720/Daggerboard.jpg</a></p> <p>Also, a question: such a daggerboard would cause drag, but couldn't it also be useful for trimming the boat when rowing across or into heavy wind?</p> <p>Thanks for the inspirational design! I'm hoping to make it my next big project.</p> <p>Kellan </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=19#post-304 Thu, 30 Jun 2011 04:21:11 +0000 never_late 304@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>I found the Anderson bailers at Mauri Pro Sailing in Texas. If you search on Anderson Bailers or Elvstrom Bailers you will find some retailers. I use the "Mini" designed for external mounting. That the same one which Maas and Peinert use on their boats. I had the Kingfisher "Dragon King" out this morning and it was choppy so I just left both of them open the whole row (about an hour) until I got back into the harbor. They add some drag but the Kingfisher's freeboard is so low that it will fill up with water fast in choppy conditions. Or boat wakes. Or short period, steep swells if you're going upswell. A few weeks ago I was rowing back to the harbor and was caught in steep, fresh chop combined with steep, short period swells and going against both. I was swamped completely but floated high enough to row like that for nearly a mile before the stateroom could drain faster than it was coming in over the sides. I found that I could turn to have the seas on my beam and the bailers would get ahead. And downwind and downswell, of course, too. But the direction I wanted to go just kept me swamped. The two bailers just can't keep up with low freeboard and steep waves. BTW, I have been completely swamped in the Maas 2X, the Peinert Dolphin and the Maas Aero and 24. In all cases the staterooms hold not much water. Your butt gets wet since the water's up to the deck. But the water volume is small enough to the boat still sits high enough to row sustainably. In the Kingfisher the water volume is big since there is no seat deck. Completely swamped is very slow going. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=203#post-300 Tue, 17 May 2011 16:14:44 +0000 Colin 300@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hello Clarkey,</p> <p>We've just completed the camping rowboat, and have put it through trials. It performs very well in rough water, and we were able to maintain a good clip. You can see the writeup and pics on this link: <a href="http://angusrowboats.com/blog/" rel="nofollow">http://angusrowboats.com/blog/</a> Just click on the first picture to see a complete slideshow of the boat.</p> <p>Unfortunately, we won't have the plans and manual available until well after the summer (a lengthy exercise in graphics and design). We've got three expeditions planned over the next six months, so there will be little time for the developing the camper rowboat plans.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=203#post-299 Mon, 16 May 2011 05:33:40 +0000 clarkey 299@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi, I was wondering if there was any update on the cruising rowboat? I am very interested to hear more about it. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=202#post-298 Tue, 10 May 2011 16:30:14 +0000 Colin 298@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>That sounds like a great trip you're planning. I think the Expedition could definitely do the trip you're planning, but there are a couple of things you want to keep in mind. It definitely takes some practice using a sliding seat rowing system in choppy water, so you want to spend time practicing and working your way up slowly to bigger water. The boat itself is very stable so it mainly comes down to just keeping the rhythm going as the boat is moving all over the place. You also need to adjust power correspondingly to each oar to keep the boat on the correct course.</p> <p>We rowed more than 3500 km through Europe using the Expedition rowboats. Most of it was along the calmer canals and rivers, however we rowed a total of about 800 km in exposed waters - the Scottish coast, crossing the English Channel, the Black Sea shoreline, etc - and the boats performed very well. </p> <p>9 mm is pretty thick to build the boats from, and would make them pretty heavy. The problem with non-marine plywood is it isn't required to meet the same rigorous standards and is prone to having voids and other issues. </p> <p>Waller and Wickham Limited in Dublin is said to have a supply of marine plywood. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=202#post-297 Sun, 08 May 2011 17:36:25 +0000 lochgarman1 297@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Been looking at various plans for a single suited to coastal rowing for ages and I've finally found this. Seems brilliant, especially since I'd like to attempt an expedition of my own for charity, rowing around Ireland, stopping off at harbours or camping on beaches at the end of each day. The expedition boat appears to allow the carrying of supplies and equipment better than any other small boat I've seen.<br /> 2 questions. Would the expedition rowboat be suitable for rowing 3000km plus over daily stages over the course of a few months? And more importantly, could you suggest a easily found plywood that could be used in construction as I cannot find Marine plywood that is less than 9mm think in Ireland </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=24#post-296 Wed, 13 Apr 2011 16:29:22 +0000 Colin 296@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>The weight capacity for the Cambridge Racer is 120 lbs to 220. If you are customizing for extremely high performance (which isn't really worth the effort at the intermediate level due to minuscule difference)the one change you could make to the boat is beam. The length would stay the same to retain maximum hull speed. For a lighter person, the boat could be made slightly narrower to reduce weight and wetted area. The difficulty in doing this, however, is not worth it for the very slight performance increase. </p> <p>The boat would need to be re-designed to use strip construction. </p> <p>Yes, the rigging dimensions are a crucial element for top performance (distance outboard for oarlocks, height difference between seat and oarlocks, height difference between heels and seat, etc). The dimensions we use are fairly standard dimensions used in racing sculls, however, slight modifications can still be made to suit the individual. An excellent online resource discussing the rigging dimension for performance rowing can be found here: <a href="http://www.worldrowing.com/medias/docs/media_350410.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.worldrowing.com/medias/docs/media_350410.pdf</a></p> <p>I hope that helps... </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=24#post-294 Tue, 12 Apr 2011 15:43:28 +0000 coolgenes 294@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Really excited to see the Cambridge rower. I've been going back and forth on the Oxford vs. Kingfisher for months, not satisfied with the shortness of the Oxford so I think it is finally out. The Cambridge to my untrained eye seems very similar to the Kingfisher. I was wondering if you would comment on the weight capacity of the boat, while I'm not flyweight, I am definitely on the small side (5'7" and 145lbs) and have heard this makes a big difference to how the boat feels and responds, I know when on my college team I felt like I was always trying to catch up). Is it possible to modify the design for smaller rowers, is this recommended, what to modify? In addition, a fellow boatbuilder of a rower of her own design told me "Get your hands on some info about rigging. Heights are critical: heels to seat, seat to pins. What you won't find is the location of the pins (therefore the slides) relative to the end of the boat." Finally, I understand that you are designing your boats to be quickly assembled for quick use and enjoyment but from your experience, could the forms be rounded out and use strips instead of stitch and glue? </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=19#post-293 Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:14:08 +0000 Colin 293@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of rowing. It sounds like you have an incredible wealth of rowing experiences in all types of boats, conditions and equipment. I was especially interested to hear your thoughts on self bailers with the Kingfisher, as I plan on installing a self-bailer (or maybe two, hearing of your experiences) in the Cambridge Racer for this summer. I see there are some British retailers online selling them, so will check it out. </p> <p>Cheers,</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=19#post-292 Wed, 23 Mar 2011 04:54:22 +0000 never_late 292@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>I have tried many different sculling blades in open water over the past 4 years. Macons, Concept 2 (three different blade styles), Dreher (including Apex R a.k.a "lollipops", Aero, and hatchet), and WinTech. My favorite is the Apex R. It seems to have the least drag when skipping on the wavetops, perhaps because of the smoother joint between blade and shaft. It also catches in the kelp the least, perhaps because of it's smoother outline. There's another issues I bring up when discussing sculls. When rowing in skinny boats that are hard to balance and set it can be an advantage to have somewhat heavier sculls (i.e. fiberglass instead of carbon fiber) because their extra mass (even though small) helps one apply more balancing force to the boat with the sculls above the water on the recovery. Lightweight sculls might be less work but lack the "balance" effect. As always, optimization of the inboard/outboard ratio or 'gearing' can help a great deal in achieving bliss. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=20#post-291 Wed, 23 Mar 2011 04:38:16 +0000 never_late 291@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>drdan: whew 42 km in breaking waves is a tough haul! I have rowed the Alden Ocean Shell in the 18' and 16' version and find that design to be lacking for rough water, even with a suction bailer or two installed and opened. It's open stateroom can hold enough water to prevent a suction bailer from working since a swamped boat will slow down so much the suction bailer's not removing much water. Worse yet, the hull isn't really strong enough to keep it's shape with that much water in it. I have had excellent success with a 16' gunning dory that is completely open. It has flotation in case of swamping. It is so "corky", however that one goes farther vertically than horizontally in seas that are 4' to 6' and breaking. But it stays dry. The windage is significant and so it might only manage 1-2 knots in a strong upwind condition, depending on the rower. So a marathon would take quite some time! </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=24#post-290 Wed, 23 Mar 2011 04:26:03 +0000 never_late 290@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi open water rowers. I have been rowing many different open water rowing shells on San Francisco Bay and Monterey Bay. All except one have "automatic", a.k.a. "suction", a.k.a Anderson, bailers. The model universally used by the boat manufacturers is the Anderson Mini. Peinert and Maas use them. They are not really "automatic", of course, since one needs to open when under way and closed when stopped. Those actions just take a couple seconds. In my Kingfisher (which has an open stateroom, i.e., no seat deck) I have installed two Anderson Mini bailers. I usually use one but, in really rough water I need two to keep up with the volume of water coming in over the side. I should mention I weigh 250 lbs. so I really push the hull deep into the water and there's not much freeboard. I have rowed the Kingfisher at 6.1 knots for about an hour in a racing event in Monterey Bay (the Lobster Row). The water was not choppy but there were significant waves not from local winds. I have a nice photo of me at the finish I can send to you. In flat water I bet I could go 6.3 or 6.4 knots for an hour. But where am I going to find that much flat water? My experience is that my bailers (each of which is centered about 50 mm off centerline, port and starboard) produce a noticeable turning force which one must counteract or else veer off course. Sometimes I alternate just so I can pull harder on one side the rest that side and pull harder on the other side. My Kingfisher has a shallow, long metal skeg. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=201#post-289 Tue, 15 Mar 2011 16:40:17 +0000 Colin 289@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hello Ken,</p> <p>Paper is used for the full scale plans. Mylar is a slightly more stable medium, but at significantly higher cost. With our overall objective to provide a reasonably priced, yet quality product to homebuilders, we didn't want to add excessive cost. We have measured our plans at high humidity, low humidity, post rolled and unrolled, and have found the greatest variation to be 1/8" inch which will have no bearing on the finished product. As you say, the variation is equal in all directions, so there is negligible distortion. </p> <p>We notice that Chesapeake Lightcraft also offers their full sized plans in paper. They are the biggest kitboat/plan manufacturer with a reputation for quality, so I would imagine if there were any problems they would be using Mylar instead.</p> <p>Our contact information is on the team page. Thanks for pointing out the difficulty in finding it. We will add a direct "contact us" link on our main page shortly.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=201#post-288 Tue, 15 Mar 2011 00:45:44 +0000 ken 288@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>The full scale pattern option seems a good value however I'm curious as to what material is used. Mylar is optimal but I doubt you can provide 19' of it at that price. Wary of paper since it can be so changeable but perhaps if everything is shrinking equally it doesn't really matter.<br /> Just found your site. May have missed it but can't find contact info anywhere. (other than here) </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=22#post-265 Wed, 12 Jan 2011 16:15:32 +0000 Anonymous 265@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>I'm about to fit a piantedosi sliding rigger system into a new scout 540 rowing shell. (a 5,4 metre 20 kg carbon mix between a skiff and a wherry)</p> <p>The engineering of this system appears to be solid. The sliding box section is long, dissipating all the twisting forces while rowing on open waters, while additional stays from this box section to the oarlocks will add rigidity to the entire structure.</p> <p>Over the last 5 years I have owned (from new) both the Virus Turbo and the Virus Class, which I used extensively. The Turbo was definitely fun. A proper hull with pleasing lines abeit a bit cramped for a 1,95 cm/95kg rower. The sliding rigger however was flawed. The tiny box section rolling on tubes was equiped with crude bearings with interior bearing cases selfdestructing every 3 months. This had nothing to do with inferior maintenance but the top rear bearing just could not cope with the non-symetric forces on the system unavoidable on choppy waters. Furthermore the rigger gave way to metal fatigue twice rowing along the Dutch coast. Both shortcomings can be lifetreatening in a unstable craft on open (cold) water.<br /> The Virus Class (conventional s-seat) should be avoided. Awfull/slow to row, feeble outriggers &amp; footrests and a hull with the rigidy of a half inflated balloon. </p> <p>I much prefer the rolling rigger system, but I just could not find a decent open water boat. Therefore I decided to build the Piantedosi/Scout 540 hybrid to my own specs. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php#post-264 Tue, 21 Dec 2010 16:49:15 +0000 Colin 264@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Brian,</p> <p>Yes, Seattle is a fantastic place for boating, with a very active open water rowing community in Puget Sound. We don't yet have the plans for the catamaran element, but are hoping to have those available in the spring. The catamaran formation is primarily designed to create a stable swim/camping platform and is not for open water travel. If you wished to sail with the boats catamaraned, it would be feasible to further reinforce the catamaran supports to accommodate the extra stresses.</p> <p>I'll post further information here about the catamaran when we put together the plans.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php#post-263 Tue, 21 Dec 2010 16:43:53 +0000 Colin 263@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hello Brian,</p> <p>Washington is a good state to be in if you need boat supplies. It can be difficult finding good marine plywood, but Edensaw Plywood is an excellent source. They specialize in marine woods of all sorts and have two locations in Tacoma and Port Townsend. </p> <p>They sell both Chinese BS 1088 okoume plywood and Jouberts made in France. If you go for Jouberts, it will be about $550 to $600 for the wood required to complete the Expedition boat, and about half that if you use Chinese. The Jouberts is undeniably better quality and has stricter quality control. The Chinese, however, is of reasonable quality and provides acceptable results for those on a tighter budget. </p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php#post-262 Tue, 21 Dec 2010 06:25:47 +0000 Anonymous 262@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Please pardon my multiple posts... I just found out I'll be moving to Seattle in the next month from the Midwest. I've long admired your boats but now suddenly I'll be in a place to build and enjoy one. I saw mentioned a catamaran kit for the Expedition Rowboat and wanted to know if you have any plans of offering it (either as a kit or plans)?</p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Brian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php#post-261 Tue, 21 Dec 2010 06:18:04 +0000 Anonymous 261@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hello,</p> <p>I'm new to boat building and wanted to know if anyone could provide an estimate for what I should expect to pay for lumber to complete the Expedition Rowboat using the materials kit. Do prices vary regionally (I'll be moving to Seattle in the next month where I'd build it)?</p> <p>Thanks!<br /> Brian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=23#post-260 Wed, 01 Dec 2010 17:18:04 +0000 Colin 260@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>That's interesting to hear how they did the Cornish Gig in two halves (Previous topic - Expedition Rowboat in Two Halves)- that's certainly one way to do it. The nice thing about doing it that way is you could complete the entire boat - decks, coaming, etc, before simply cutting it in half.</p> <p>With regards to creating the Salamander in two halves, this could be a concept suitable for personal customization. There are a few drawbacks that would not make it suitable for the primary boat design. These include:</p> <p>1) The two halves won't fit snugly into one another because of the cutout bulkheads utilized along the boat's length.</p> <p>2) It will add a bit of extra weight to the boat, and time required for assembly at the water's edge.</p> <p>3) Most importantly - the boat will have a few different rowing configurations for rowing solo, double or solo with passenger. Having a full double bulkhead in the middle of the boat will significantly reduce the number combinations since the sliding track can't be placed over the bulkhead. If you lower the bulkhead, you risk having water coming in between the joins.</p> <p>We towed our 18' Expedition boats 3500 km through the UK and Europe without any significant problems. At 16' it should be pretty doable. I think the key advantage to having the boat in two halves is for storage purposes. If your space is limited, it would certainly make life easier. Each half wouldn't weigh much more than 20lbs, so, as you say, you could easily just carry it upstairs and store the two halves in the corner of your living room. The main thing to consider would be the rowing configuration you plan on using, and making sure the new bulkhead doesn't interfere with the tracks.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=23#post-259 Wed, 01 Dec 2010 11:14:58 +0000 Anonymous 259@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>the thread about building a two section Expedition Boat has me thinking about the Salamander - could there be benefits if this was built in two halves and bolted together at the water's edge?</p> <p>here's a few possible benefits-</p> <p>The Salamander is targeted at towing behind a bicycle. It would be much easier in traffic to tow an 8' long hull than a 16' long one. One hull stacked on the other. The 10' oars could be used to connect from an axle to the front of the hulls and form a trailer.</p> <p>Each half hull would be just under 8'. By using a building jig such as this optimist one,<br /> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_L_gmO1xMx3I/S8gVX2BcF2I/AAAAAAAAIiw/QHFvUUhFSPQ/s1600/Base_to_jig_1.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_L_gmO1xMx3I/S8gVX2BcF2I/AAAAAAAAIiw/QHFvUUhFSPQ/s1600/Base_to_jig_1.jpg</a><br /> each half could be built separately, using the same jig, just exchanging the female mould placed about 6' from the half hull bulkhead.<br /> The jig would ensure accuracy.<br /> By only needing a space just longer than 8' anyone would have the space to build and store the boat - a huge benefit.<br /> It would be possible to build over the winter in a dining room, spare bedroom where ever. Inside the house. Not being able to use epoxy in the cold garage all winter is hopeless. We all want to build in winter and be on the water the rest of the time.<br /> After bolting the two halves together, additional bracing would come from the sliding seat/rigger supports which would fix to the center half bulkheads and a forward and aft frames.</p> <p>Best of all there would be no need to join 8' sheets into 16' sheets. Just use the 8' sheets and cut out the panels and build!!!</p> <p>So there you go - a two part 16' sliding rigger Salamander that tows behind my bike easily and is easy to carry down the cliff steps.</p> <p>Brian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=27#post-258 Tue, 30 Nov 2010 11:57:54 +0000 Anonymous 258@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>In our UK Water Craft Magazine there was an article about building a 30' Cornish Gig in a ships hold, then cutting it in two to get it out and store it on board. They had two main bulkheads side by side with wooden washers separating the two. The washer were the thickness of a saw cut. They built the hull and then sawed between the two bulkheads to separate the two halves. There was a picture showing this tense moment!<br /> So for the Expedition Boat, we could cut washers using a hole saw on some spare 4mm ply. make two main bulkheads, glue the washers between the two, drill the bolt holes for when assembling the hulls, so the job is done when it's easy to do. Then build the hull as normal, cutting the boat in two when needed. the saw would be guided between the two bulkheads and cut away the temporary washers.<br /> Have to say, a two piece boat solves a number of problems for me, since my garage is only 16'6" long. It is high at one end though so storing the hulls vertically at one end of the garage in winter would be great. Also, it's important to be able to load singlehanded onto and off the car roof, and this would be much better in two parts. Might even be able to manage carrying half a hull at a time down the cliff steps from my home. I have been trying for years to work out how to get a boat up and down those steps on my own.<br /> Brian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php#post-207 Tue, 09 Nov 2010 18:08:38 +0000 Bill 207@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Just a quick note to let you know that I ended up using spruce for my riggers, and it's worked well. I ended up getting some tight-grained knot free spruce for a good price, so used it instead of fir. I've not been been rowing every second day for the past couple months, and it's still holding strong. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=27#post-206 Tue, 09 Nov 2010 18:04:58 +0000 Colin 206@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Yes, the temporary bulkhead should work fine for creating the correct curve for the hull planks. You'll need a bit of extra wood, of course, but it will definitely make the required work space a little less. I look forward to seeing how it progresses.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=23#post-109 Fri, 05 Nov 2010 15:57:50 +0000 Colin 109@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hey Brian,</p> <p>You're right, at sixteen feet the merits of a sliding rigger system would be further pronounced. First, we'll just be offering the standard sliding seat system, since it will be the same as the Expedition Rigger slide/seat system. It will take quite some time to design and build (new hardware will likely need to be sourced) a sliding rigger system, but this is something we will be looking at down the road.</p> <p>Plywood gunwales could potentially be used, and this could be an option, but I see two drawbacks: 1) The wood used on the gunwales is thicker than that used anywhere else on the boat, so a separate sheet of ply would have to be purchased, with only a small part of it being used (unless you laminated several think sheets together, but that's a lot of work). 2) Aesthetics: I think the look of solid wood is more visually pleasing than the laminated effect of plywood. Of course, this is a matter of personal preference. Structurally, plywood would work, although it would need to be thicker than solid wood since it is not as stiff on the lateral plane (since the grain goes both ways).</p> <p>That's a nice looking bike - perfect for being carried on small boats. If you're travelling on fresh water, I think the simplest solution would be to epoxy in some secure anchor points, and simply cinch the bike in place with cam straps. Spray all the components with a light oil spray to protect from corrosion. Creating compartments and hatches is a lot of extra work, so if you're travelling on salt water, I think the dry bag solution would be the most straightforward solution.</p> <p>Cheers,</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=23#post-107 Fri, 05 Nov 2010 11:27:19 +0000 Anonymous 107@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Colin, could you consider three things for me whilst designing the Salamander.</p> <p>1st) at this shorter length a sliding rigger option would be good. For me, it would be really helpful because I will be rowing on the sea and I have a damaged balance mechanism so avoiding moving my head backwards and forwards, as with a sliding seat, would be good! I also think the market would welcome a sliding rigger design.<br /> 2nd) it is a real hassle and considerable extra cost to use machined hardwood for open gunnels etc. Could this design use only plywood, even for the gunnels. Much better for kitting as well.<br /> 3rd) I have bought a folding bike, a Birdy, and it's great fun. It's suspension is great for rough forest and coastal paths. <a href="http://birdybike.com/Models/DPP_0004.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://birdybike.com/Models/DPP_0004.jpg</a> . I intend to tow the Salamander with the Birdy, so a storage space would be great. Perhaps a forward buoyancy tank could store the Birdy and a rear tank the trailer? As an option to a fully open boat? If not possible will find a large drybag but storage that way would not be as secure.<br /> Brian </p>